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Simulation of Wave Breaking in One-Dimensional Spectral Environment
2012
Journal of Physical Oceanography
Results of numerical investigations, based on full dynamic equations, are presented for wave breaking in a one-dimensional environment with a wave spectrum. The breaking is defined as a process of irreversible collapse of an individual wave in physical space, and the incipient breaker is a wave that reached a dynamic condition of the limiting stability where the collapse has not started yet but is inevitable. The main attention is paid to documenting the evolution of different wave
doi:10.1175/jpo-d-11-0128.1
fatcat:oc7zn5opwvdxnmezx7vw6ea4m4