The territory of Sierra Leone was first ceded to England in 1787, when its affairs were conducted by the African Company. In 1807 the Company was dissolved, and the colony transferred to the Crown, The peninsula of Sierra Leone is separated from the mainland by an isthmus of about a mile and a half in breadth. The estuary of the river Sierra Leone, and the Bunce river, form its northern and eastern boundaries ; whilst the waters of the Atlantic wash its southern and western shores. It is

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... ed almost in every direction by ranges of rocky and serrated hills, varying in height from five hundred to two thousand feet above the level of the sea. Their abutments or spurs, which project into the sea, or stretch towards it and the river, form excellent bays, and a succession of land-locked amphitheatres. This mountainous range commences a few miles from Cape Schilling, where the country is low and swampy. The ravines which intersect the hills as they approach the sea and the estuary, spread into valleys of inconsiderable extent. Between Waterloo and Hastings, on the eastern side of the colony, the mountains recede from E. Clarke-TAe Inhabitants of Sierra Leone. 321 the river for distances varying from half a mile to three miles, and leave a belt of level ground of about twenty-four miles in length. shore, and nearly opposite Freetown, is also British territory. On approaching Sierra Leone, the coast for some leagues to the northward and southward is low and level. But on entering the bay a very striking contrast is presented by the hills grandly towering one upon another into lofty mountains. Their forms apparently advancing and receding, as the huge masses of light and shade are thrown upon or reflected from them ; the endless diversity of their peaks and declivities, perpetually clothed with a variegated and luxuriant foliage ; below, the beautiful and commodious bay of Sierra Leone, with the picturesque hamlets of the liberated Africans peeping here and there upon the hill slopes and banks of the river, displays a coup d'oeil of grandeur and beauty, upon which the European, approaching for the first time from seaward, ga^es with untiring admiration. To this feeling, as he nears the land, is superadded the effect produced by the numerous canoes managed by negroes, many of them nearly naked, passing to or from the Bullom shore, or voyaging to or from the Gallinas, Mallicourie, Isles de Los, etc., laden with cattle, rice, and other produce, or busily engaged in fishing ; whilst close inshore, boats and other craft, seen engaged in loading or unloading the several vessels at anchor, enliven the picture with a scene of incessant activity. On the hill sides few large trees have been left standing except palms, and the lofty wild cotton trees ; but the " Sugar Loaf, the highest mountain in the colony, is wooded to its summit. The indiscriminate removal of the forest trees has, in my oj)inion, materially contributed to make the colony more unhealthy than it otherwise would be, had they been judiciously thinned ; because trees, it is well known, exercise a most salutary influence Y 322 R Clarke -The Inhabitants of Sierra Leone. on the health of the inhabitants of malarious countries, by screening off and greatly modifying that most subtle poison. Copsewood, densely matted by climbing plants and long grass, has grown up instead, and is in strong contrast to the numerous patches of cleared land, covered with cassada and other green crops, which border the jungle in every direction. The soil in some places is a reddish brown or argillaceous clay ; in others it is rocky or gravelly, with a large ferruginous intermixture, strewn with boulders composed of a close grained granite. In several places the lower grounds are paved with an easily worked cavernous stone, which is used throughout the settlement for building purposes. Small lumps of magnetic iron ore are largely scattered about the colony, but no iron veins have yet been discovered. The year is divided into the dry and rainy seasons, the latter being ushered in and terminated by tornadoes. The tornados commence generally from N.E. or E.N.E., shifting round to E.S.E., and when they reach S.E. the storm is at its height. The dark clouds at the commencement of a tornado are massed pile upon pile, a lurid sulphurous light blazing and flickering at intervals, while vivid flashes of forked lightning dart across the sky in rapid succession. The grandeur of this scene, and the awful stillness of its formation for ten or fifteen minutes previous to its bursting forth, is increased until the whole horizon is one great scene of gloom, which is gradually lighted up, followed by lightning and thunder-claps, giving the idea of the crash of brazen clouds, rather than the sudden shock of aeriform masses. As the fury of the tempest begins to be experienced, torrents of rattling rain begin to fall. Prior to this, the storm is at its greatest height, the thunder loudest, and the lightning most vivid. After the rain has poured down some minutes, the wind shifts round by degrees to W.S.W., and the sky becomes as serene as ever. A rumbling sound is often heard along the earth simultaneously with the heavier claps of thunder. The rains commence in May with showery weather, and are at their height in July and August. It sometimes rains continually for thirty hours ; but more frequently twelve hours of heavy rain are succeeded by twenty-four or thirty hours, or even a longer period, of clear and pleasant weather. The mean fall of rain is 189 inches ; but in the years 1852 and 1853, the amount was respectively 163 and 109 inches. About the middle or end of December, the Harmattan wind sets in, a haze accompanying it ; and generally prevails in December, January, and February. It blows from the N.E., or from the E.N.E., at any hour of the day, time of the tide, or period of the moon. The eyes, nostrils, lips, and palate become dry and uneasy ; and when the Harmattan continues four or five days, the outer cuticle peels off from the R. Clarke -The Inhabitants of Sierra Leone. 323 hands and face ; and should it prevail longer, other portions of the skin are similarly affected. It exposes defects in furniture, and contracts wooden flooring so much, that light is freely admitted through the seams, and sounds from above and below may be heard with greater distinctness. The branches of the orange and lime-trees droop, and the leaves become flaccid and wither. The grass is scorched to yellowness, and the natives take this opportunity to set it and the jungle on fire. Water is rendered deliciously cool-so cold indeed, that in some persons it causes a momentary aching of the teeth. At this season of the year, the country has a wintry aspect, and the aridity is so great that the earth becomes caked, and when walked upon, conveys the ringing sound so perceptible in clear frosty weather. The Harmattan winds, so far from being injurious to life, are, in my opinion, very salubrious, and are much enjoyed by Europeans who have lived long on the coast ; but persons recently arrived, on the contrary, find that they cause a dryness of the skin, and corresponding temporary functional disturbance of the liver. The thermometer ranges from 84°i n the shade to 75°, and the mean temperature of the year is calculated to be 81°7' 3". The city of Freetown, lying in 8°29' north latitude and 13°14' west longitude, stands on a gentle acclivity, and occupies a space between two and three miles in circumference. It is well laid out and adapted to the climate, and the beauty of its position is perhaps unrivalled. The streets are wide, and carpeted over with a sward of Bahama and other grasses, upon which cattle, sheep, and goats, quietly graze. The houses occupied by Europeans and wealthy natives, are built of stone, except the piazzas, which are of wood. They are constructed with an especial view to as much coolness as possible and, on the whole, are excellent dwellings. Many of the natives live in frame houses, supported on stone foundations, roofed with shingles. The huts of the people are usually built in an enclosure, and have an air of comfort and neatness about them, which is greatly increased by being embowered and shaded by the bright green leaves of the plantain and banana-trees that are generally grown around them. The population of Sierra Leone is composed of Europeans, Maroons and their descendants. Nova Scotia settlers and descendants, liberated Africans and their children (called Creoles), negroes from the West Indies, and Liberia and Kroomen. The fluctuating portion of it consists of Soosoos, Tinmanees, Eoulahs, Serrakoolets, Sulimas, and other strangers, who come to trade. The clannish sentiment is strongly marked in the negro character, and has led the members of the difierent tribes to congregate together in particular parts of Freetown. Hence, quarters y2 324 R Olaeke -The Inhabitants of Sierra Leone. of it are known as Settler, Maroon, Kroo, Foulah, and Congo towns ; and in the rural districts many hamlets are distinguished by the names of the tribes inhabiting them. The Mahomedans, Akoos, Mandingoes, &c., reside generally together in the suburbs of the city, and, except in the way of business, hold little intercourse with the rest of the people. In colour, the skin of the different tribes varies through every shade, from the deepest glossy black to an indifferent black, coffee, or coppery yellow. The form of the head likewise varies considerably in different tribes. In the Moco it bulges out over the parietal protuberances. Differences are also observable in the features, the negroes from the south coast being usually fuller lipped, with broader and flatter noses, than those from the north. Among the Akoos (Yarribeans) and other tribes, the nose is often well-shaped. In many the eyelid is fringed with long curledup eye-lashes, and in a few the iris is of a greenish colour. The teeth in many of the black people are beautifully white and finely set, but in a large proportion they are indifferent. Generally speaking, they soon decay, loosen, and fall out, from the gums becoming spongy. By some of the tribes, they are pointed by chipping. In a few persons the hair is reddish, or tinged of a sandy colour. The hair of the Foulahs, Serrakoolets, and Mandingoes is longer and less crisp than that of the negroes in general, and they evidently pride themselves on this circumstance, because they supplement it by wearing other hair with their own, to form the plaits, which the Foulahs crop evenly all round and allow to hang down to the shoulders. The features of the Sulimas and Serrakoolets are pleasing and intelligent, finely formed but small In the Joloff and Mandingo, the face is perhaps larger and the nose broader. Amongst the negroes of Sierra Leone, flat feet, with projecting heels, predominate ; but the exceptions to this rule are numerous. The majority of the population walk barefooted, and the skin of their feet is hard and horny : sandals are, therefore, better suited to them than shoes, and on this account are now worn by all the soldiers of the West India regiments, because they admit of greater flexibility and motion than the shoe. The beard is as scanty in some of the races, as it is abundant in others. It is carefully dressed by the Mahomedan negroes, but they shave the upper lip. Newly arrived liberated Africans often shave the hair in a variety of patterns. Half the side of the head is sometimes shaved vertically, the other horizontally, or small tufts are left dotted over it. Most of the people are middle sized, but many are tall and well proportioned. The Foulahs, Serrakoolets, Joloffs, and Sulimas, are spare, athletic men ; and the Kroomen are remarkably R Claeke -The Inhabitants of Sierra Leone. 325 strongly built, and on an average are above tbe middle stature. Many of the young liberated African women and Creole girls are pretty, gay, and good humoured. They spare no pains to enhance their charms, and spend much time and take a great deal of trouble in dressing their hair. By some it is plaited in braids, others coax it with the help of oil into little corkscrew curls, or brush it down as smoothly as its crispness will allow. The Joloff women are remarkable for their graceful and agreeable manners. Their tall, commanding persons are enveloped in a wide scarf, which falls in ample folds round the whole figure, in the style of the Spanish mantilla. Although an erect and graceful carriage, with perfect self-possession, characterizes many of the women, several, nevertheless, are pigeon-toed, as it is termed, and waddle in walking. Great mobility of the pelvis may be observed, more especially among the hard-working females, who bear heavy burdens on their heads. It, in fact, appears to sway from side to side, as if hinged upon the spinal column. This peculiarity is less noticeable amongst the men. Pleasing manners, soft and winning ways, with a low voice and musical laugh, may, in strict truth, be declared to be the heritage of most of the negro vromen. Dress, in a colony with such a diversity of nationalities, is widely varied both in form and cost, from the simple loin-cloth of the Kroomen to the flowing robes of the Mahomedan negroes, and to the newest style of fashion worn in Europe. Striped or checked cotton shirts, with jacket and trousers of blue baft or duck, is the ordinary wear of the men. During the rains, guernsey shirts and woollen clothing are much patronized. A straw or felt hat is worn on the head, which they sometimes paint blue, green, or white, to make it waterproof. In and about their house, a country made cloth is much worn. It is about the size of a sheet, and is thrown gracefully over the left shoulder and under the right arm. Villagers work their patches of land with no other covering on than a loin-cloth, but before setting out carefully anoint the skin with doneh grease (shea butter). When walking in the country, or when at work about their huts, the shirt is frequently taken off and wrapped round the loins, with the sleeves dangling in front. Occasionally, very poor men may be seen whose only covering is a small apron spread before them and tied to the loins. The liberated African women usually wear a gown of printed calico or blue baft, petticoat, and jacket ; but many of them only wear variously coloured cotton country cloths wrapped about their persons. The petticoat is generally of yellow, red, or orange coloured stuff, and is displayed to much advantage. They like to have their arms free, and frequently withdraw them from the sleeves of the gown. Indeed, the custom of exposing the upper part of the body is one common alike to matron and maid. 326 R Clarke -The Inhabitants of Sierra Leone. The Settler, Maroon, and Mulatto girls, and many of the Creoles (children of the liberated Africans) dress showily, but with much taste. Shoes are usually worn by these young ladies, but stockings are often dispensed with. Silk umbrellas and parasols are deemed indispensable ; and, if their circumstances will allow, they are accompanied by a female attendant, who follows them at a respectful distance. The headdress is very becoming. A handkerchief of silk or bright coloured cotton is tastefully arranged about the head, the ends hanging down at the back of the neck, which they call "pennant". Old Settler and Maroon women sport men's hats of antiquated shapes over the kerchief ; but this ugly fashion will most probably die out with them. Women of all classes wear around the loins a belt of variously coloured beads, which is never relinquished during life. A single string or two is put on the infant soon after its birth, and additional ones are added as it grows up. Few of the native ladies wear stays, but crinolines are much in vogue. Young Timmanee, Sherboro,or Soosoo girls, are sometimes paraded in the streets naked, with the exception of a narrow strip of coloured calico, which is passed between the legs, the long ends streaming before and behind. They make these appearances after having been circumcised ; and they are so paraded to let the men know that they are marriageable. In their hands they carry long white wands, and are attended and guarded by an old woman with tender vigilance. Gold and silver ornaments are much worn in the ears and fingers, and necklaces of amber or coral beads adorn their necks, wrists, and ankles. Bangles of silver are much worn on the wrists and ankles by the Timmanee women, and some others who visit the colony ; and many of them wear small bells attached to the ankles. These tinkling gewgaws are referred to in Isaiah (iii, 18). Mothers in the colony frequently fasten them round their babies" ankles, not only as ornaments, but to keep off the evil eye. The men also delight in ornaments, wearing silver rings in the ears and upon the fingers, necklaces of beads being much worn by the liberated African and Mahomedan part of the population. Both sexes are fond of perfumes, the dried leaves and powder of an odoriferous plant smelling like the woodroff, or new-mown hay, being frequently carried by the women about their persons. The civilized blacks spare no expense in obtaining the best and newest style of European dress ; and this love of finery too often becomes quite a passion amongst the young people, its inordinate indulgence occasionally leading to pilfering and other dishonest acts. The Foulah, Serrakoolet, and other Mahomedan negroes, wear E. Claeke -The Inhabitants of Sierra Leone. 827 a wide flowing robe of white or blue calico, over a close fitting vest, with loose hanging sleeves, and ample trousers gathered round the knee, leaving the legs bare to the feet. On the head a high peaked cap of scarlet or blue cloth is worn, gaily embroidered. It is sometimes shaped like a mitre. Broad brimmed hats of cane, with a bristling crown, are frequently worn in the rains. Akoos and other converts to the Mahomedan creed wear long wide trousers, and a sleeveless tunic of calico. Amulets enclosed in small neatly made leather cases are secured to the cap, hang from the neck, or are attached to the arms, wrists, below the knee, and to the ankles. There are gris-gris for the head, eyes, and every part of the body, and they appear to have much confidence in their conservative influence. In their hands they generally carry a rosary ; and often walk about armed with a gun or spear, and when travelling a bow and quiver are slung across the shoulders, or placed loosely on the top of a long wicker basket which is carried by an attendant slave. Instead of a^un or spear, they sometimes carry a rod about six feet long and three inches in circumference, shod at one end with a ferule of iron six inches in length. A knife or cutlass is also slung from the arm, and completes their means of defence. The Kissy road and neighbourhood of Fourah Bay, suburbs in the east end of Freetown, are the places where these followers of the prophet appear in greatest force ; and this preference may possibly be explained by a large mosque having been built many years ago by the Mahomedan Akoos, at a hamlet a short way from the city in that direction. Groups of these warlike strangers may be observed squatted on mats on the ground conversing, or about the merchants' stores. In the streets they may occasionally be seen kneeling upon a mat or skin, praying apparently with much devotion, counting their beads, and bowing towards the east. Professedly they abstain from intoxicating liquors, but this rule is relaxed by some of them when it can safely be done without compromising their character for sanctity, on the plea of illness, or its being " good for the stomach". In travelling to the colony to barter their gold, ivory, wax, and cattle, for guns, powder, tobacco, and cotton goods, a sufficient number of these intrepid men form themselves into a caravan, and select as their leader a man of the greatest experience amongst themselves, whom they call " Selayti". It is his duty to collect from each member of the caravan funds wherewith to purchase provisions on the road, and to meet incidental expenses. He likewise examines their guns, and sees that they are in good order and ready for use. Their baggage is small, consisting of one change of shirt and trousers, and a heavy cotton cloth of native manufacture to cover with at night, when they sleep on 328 E. Clarke -The hihahitants of Sierra Leone. mats, their only bed.