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ON PREDICTING INFRAGRAVITY ENERGY IN THE SURF ZONE
1984
Coastal Engineering Proceedings
Flow data were obtained in the surf zone across a barred profile during a storm. RMS cross-shore velocities due to waves in the infragravity band (wave periods greater than 20 s) had maxima in excess of 0.5 m/s over the bar crest. For comparison to measured spectra, synthetic spectra of cross-shore flow were computed using measured nearshore profiles. The synthetic spectra were calculated assuming a white runup spectrum of mode-4 edge waves of unit amplitude, although the results would be
doi:10.9753/icce.v19.130
fatcat:i243pp5o2rahteamtln7vmuzwu