Introduction 人参(Panax ginseng C. A. Mey)为五加科植物,其根 具有近两千年的药用历史,在中国自古就有美容养颜的运用 先例。最早记载于中国古籍《神农本草经》:"人参,味甘 微寒,主补五脏,安精神,定魂魄,止惊悸,除邪气,明 目,开心益智。久服,轻身延年"。历代医家均认为人参为 补虚良药,具益气补血、生津补阳、安神益智、固脱活血、 扶正祛邪的功效。中国经典美容医书《千金方》、《圣济总 录》和《鲁府禁方》均对人参的美容方剂有所记载,人参更 是清朝皇宫崇尚的养颜佳品,如《慈禧光绪医方选议》中记 载的"五芝地仙金髓丹"。近年随着生活水平的提高和消费 水平的升级,消费者对美丽的需求越来越旺盛,对天然植物 类护肤品的认可度和青睐度不断攀升,国内外诸多化妆品企 业把目光转向这有着"百草之王"美誉的植物,陆续推出了 多种人参相关产品。结合市场现状,本文综述人参化妆品的 功效、技术及市场运用等方面,以为人参化妆品的发展提供 参考。 Effect of ginseng and ginsenosides and their mechanism of action

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... 、叶、茎、果、根等部位含有多种活效成分,目 前已经分离的人参活性成分包括皂苷类、多糖、挥发油、氨 基酸及多肽类等,具有抗肿瘤、抗衰老、美白、调节神经系 统和提供免疫等多种功效,以人参皂苷和人参提取物的抗衰 和美白功效在化妆品研究和运用最多。 1. Anti-aging effect of ginseng and ginsenosides 1) Anti-aging mechanism 现代衰老学说认为,衰老与自由基及其所诱导的脂质过 Abstract The purpose of this study was to better understand the current situation of ginseng cosmetics research and the possible development direction in the future, through sorting out the relevant research results of domestic and foreign scholars and investigating the market application. To summarize the mechanism and related technologies of ginseng cosmetics, the pertinent literatures of ginseng cosmetics in recent years were collected systematically. The research on ginseng cosmetics, especially for ginsenosides and ginseng extracts, mainly focuses on the whitening and anti-aging effects, mostly in China and Korea. Additionally, the study on the anti-aging effect of ginseng is comparatively adequate, and that of the whitening mechanism needs to be further studied and improved. As mentioned above, except for ginsenosides and ginseng extracts, the research and application in vitro of other active ingredients and traditional Chinese medicine cosmetology prescription related to ginseng is less reported. Consequently, future study can be expanded from these two aspects. References Cai BX, Luo D, Lin XF. Effects of ginsenoside Rb1 on photodamage induced by ultraviolet B in primary keratinocyte. The effects of panaxadiol saponins and ginsenoside Rb1 on cultivation melanocytes in vitro. Lishizhen Medicine and Materia Medica Research, 17: 1916-1917, 2006. Deng M, Zhong GS, Lei QR. Experiment study of the effect of ginsenoside Rd on the cultured sunlight-induced ageing fibroblasts in human dermis. Journal of Diagnosis and Therapy on Dermato-Venereology, 17: 403-406, 2010. Du HX, Tao JQ, Wang X, Liu YX, Yu X. Response surface optimized extraction of flavonoids from ginseng flower and antioxidant activities. Science and Technology of Food Industry, 39: 216-221, 230, 2018. Hong CE, Lyu SY. Anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidative effects of Korean red ginseng extract in human keratinocytes. Immune Network, 11: 42-49, 2011. 613 인삼 화장품 연구현황 Jeong HG. Cultivated ginseng suppresses ultraviolet B-induced collagenase activation via mitogen-activated protein kinases and nuclear factor κB/activator protein-1-dependent signaling in human dermal fibroblasts. S, Sung JH. Aglycone of Rh4 inhibits melanin synthesis in B16 melanoma cells: possible involvement of the protein kinase A pathway. Bioscience, Biotechnology, and Biochemistry, 77: 119-125, 2013. Kang SH, Lee EJ. Analysis of ginseng research trend for last decade. SJ, Ahn KS, Um JY, Hong SH. Korean red ginseng improves atopic dermatitis-like skin lesions by suppressing expression of proinflammatory cytokines and chemokines in vivo and in Park J. The skin protective effects of compound K, a metabolite of ginsenoside Rb1 from effects of ginseng leaf extract using enzymatic extraction against oxidative damage of UVA-irradiated human keratinocytes. Applied Biochemistry and Biotechnology, 173: 933-945, 2014. Lee DC, Lau AS. Effects of Panax ginseng on tumor necrosis factor-α-mediated inflammation: a mini-review.