A Journey in Mazanderan (From Resht to Sari)

H. L. Rabino
1913 Geographical Journal  
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more » ... SARI). 435 mountainous mass rather than a mountain, measuring over 40 miles from north to south and probably nearly as much from east to west. And thus we finally came to the' Government station of Marsabit, which has been admirably laid out in a charming and beautiful situation in the forest overlooking the Crater lake. A JOURNEY IN MAZANDERAN (FROM RESHT TO SARI).* By H. L. RABINO, lately H.B.M. Vice-Consul in Resht. Mazanderan has a great fascination for the student of Persian history. The province preserved the Pehlevi writing long after the introduction of Arabic characters into the rest of Persia, and its language has not yet entirely given way to modern Persian. It has a separate history of its own, and it was only towards the close of the sixteenth century that the descendants of its Sassanian rulers were finally dispossessed of their patrimony by Shah Abbas the Great. Leaving Resht, the capital of Gilan, and following the road constructed a few years ago by the Sepehdar-i-Azam, we passed the bazaar of Ajibisheh and reached the Geishehdemerdeh canal, on the left bank of which is a newly constructed rest-house. From here " kerejis," the flat-bottomed sailing-boats of the Caspian shores, ply to Hassanrud on the lagoon of Enzeli. The Nowrud, sometimes called Lalehrud, is a canal from the Sefid Rud, and on its right bank near the bridge is Lalehdasht. The bazaar of Kuchisfahan consists of two rows of shops with a gateway to the west, but open to the east. It was Sunday and market day, and the whole place was alive with ambulant sellers of cotton goods (some from Manchester), earthenware, provisions, tobacco, fruit, etc, the crowd being villagers from the neighbouring districts. These bazaars, called " gurab," where markets are periodically held, are usually empty on other days. They are only found in Gilan and western Mazanderan, and, as a rule, are at least 4 miles apart. Reach Reshtabad on the left bank of the Sefid Rud, near by being a fishery station for sturgeon. The country between Resht and Reshtabad is open, and the jungle cleared for rice-fields and plantations of mulberry and tobacco irrigated from the Khomamrud, Nowrud, and other lesser canals of the Sefid Rud. The ground near the Sefid Rud was sandy and flrm, with a considerable open space covered with grass. The river at this time of the year is barely 100 yards wide, and not very deep. The current was not rapid, but it becomes so in spring, when the river, which
doi:10.2307/1778726 fatcat:jdltl5j5g5hqnpjmnrucvg5tzy