Nearshore Wave Dynamics Simulated by Boussinesq Type Models

Ole R. Sørensen, Per A. Madsen, Hemming A. Schäffer
1999 Coastal Engineering 1998   unpublished
This paper presents a numerical study of nearshore wave dynamics including the surf zone. Two different time-domain Boussinesq type formulations are applied for this purpose. The first model incoporates Pade [2,2] dispersion characteristics and lowest order nonlinearity. The second and more sophisticated model incorporates Pade [4,4] characteristics and higher-order nonlinearity in the dispersive terms. The models are validated on the shoaling and breaking of regular and irregular waves with and without an ambient current.
doi:10.1061/9780784404119.019 fatcat:pzgpxg5avbgvfjc7yvwgvhfqoi