Thermo-physiological Properties of Structurally Modified Wool/Polyester Blended Machine and Hand-Spun Yarns as a Weft in Handloom Fabrics

Dinesh Bhatia, Jawahar Lal Nehru Govt. Engineering College, Department of Textile Engineering, Sundernagar (Himachal Pradesh), India, S.K. Sinha, Dr. B.R. Ambedkar National Institute of Technology, Department of Textile Technology, Jalandhar (Punjab), India, Dr. B.R. Ambedkar National Institute of Technology, Department of Textile Technology, Jalandhar (Punjab), India
2020 Tekstilec  
Thermo-physiological Properties of Structurally Modifi ed Wool/Polyester Blended Machine and Hand-Spun Yarns as a Weft in Handloom Fabrics Lastnosti toplotne udobnosti ročno stkanih tkanin z votkom iz strukturno modifi cirane preje iz mešanice volna/poliester, izdelanim strojno in ročno Original scientifi c article/Izvirni znanstveni članek Abstract An attempt was made to compare the combined desirability value for a treated and untreated handloom fabric using machine-spun and hand-spun blended
more » ... d hand-spun blended yarns as weft. The experimental plan included the preparation of both hand-spun and machine-spun yarns at diff erent blend compositions according to a mixture design prepared on Design-Expert software, followed by the preparation of fabric on a handloom. The dissolution of one component using a suitable chemical treatment was then performed on both fabrics made from handspun and machine-spun yarn by taking into account an expected signifi cant change in the arrangement of constituent fi bres that ultimately enhance performance in terms of the thermo-physiological behaviour of fabrics. All properties viz air permeability, compressibility, thermal resistance, water vapour permeability, bending rigidity and drying capacity showed signifi cant diff erences for both type of fabrics. Fabrics with hand-spun yarn as a weft demonstrated higher values of thermal resistance, compressibility, water vapour permeability and drying capacity due to the voluminous and soft structure of hand-spun yarn compared to fabric with machine-spun yarn as a weft. In general, after the dissolution of the polyvinyl alcohol component, both types of fabrics exhibited higher values of thermal resistance, compressibility, drying capacity and water vapour permeability, while values for air permeability and bending rigidity were lower for untreated fabrics. The results of the optimisation of treated fabrics with machine-spun yarn as weft demonstrated the highest desirability value (0.73), as well as a lower percentage of wool fi bres (55%), followed by treated fabrics with hand-spun yarn as weft, which demonstrated a desirability value of 0.66 and a percentage of wool fi bres of 60% in the blend composition. Untreated fabrics (both machine-spun and hand-spun) exhibited a similar desirability value and at same blend composition (20% polyester, 70% wool and 10% polyvinyl alcohol). Izvleček Neobdelane in obdelane ročno stkane tkanine z votkom iz strojno in ročno izdelanih mešanih prej so bile primerjane z vidika kombiniranega indeksa zaželenosti. Eksperimentalni načrt vključuje pripravo ročno in strojno spredene preje iz mešanic različne sestave glede na načrt, zasnovan s pomočjo programskega orodja Design-Expert, ki mu je sledila izdelava tkanin na ročnih statvah. Obe vrsti tkanin, izdelanih z ročno oziroma strojno spredeno prejo v votku, so bile kemično obdelane, pri čemer se je raztopila ena komponenta, da bi dosegli pričakovano spremembo razporeditve 139
doi:10.14502/tekstilec2020.63.138-150 fatcat:7j4jbo2hc5b4litjxbid4sk6z4