Numerical Investigation on Hydrodynamic Processes of Extreme Wave Groups on Fringing Reef

Ke Qu, Jia Men, Xu Wang, Xiaohan Li
2023 Journal of Marine Science and Engineering  
The low-lying reef islands distributed in the tropical and subtropical coastal regions are highly vulnerable to the devastating damages of surges and waves during the severe weather events. Over the past two decades, extreme waves have caused tremendous loss and damages to the tropical and subtropical coastal regions. Previous research has focused on the wave hydrodynamics of tsunami waves, as well as regular and irregular waves on the fringing reefs. The complex wave hydrodynamics of extreme
more » ... ves on the fringing reefs are rarely studied. By applying the nonhydrostatic numerical flow solver (NHWAVE), transformation and breaking process of the crest- and trough-focused wave groups on the fringing reef are analyzed in this study. Influences of the major factors, i.e., water depth, significant wave height, peak wave period, forereef slope and backreef slope, and ridge width, are discussed in detail. The results show that there are complex interactions between the fringing reef and the focused wave group. Breaking waves of high intensity can form at the reef crest. Meanwhile, due to the wave breakings at the reef crest and bottom friction of the reef flat, the local wave height can be effectively reduced. Within the complex wave hydrodynamics of focused waves on the fringing reef, most of the wave energy can be dissipated. In addition, hydrodynamic difference between the crest- and trough-focused waves on the fringing reef is very limited. The research results of this study will further help researchers to better understand the wave hydrodynamics of extreme waves over the fringing reefs.
doi:10.3390/jmse11010063 fatcat:3penupcyyrdvfgak6bwjztjpsa