Wave breaking on the reef with steep forereef slope and wave deformation model based on energy balance equation

Tsunehiro SEKIMOTO, Sayaka NAKAJIMA, Hiroyuki KATAYAMA, Kenya TAKAHASHI
2011 Journal of Japan Society of Civil Engineers Ser B2 (Coastal Engineering)  
doi:10.2208/kaigan.67.i_11 fatcat:x6i6i62lbzdy3jjjqlhmjpqvtm