Comparison of Hwangbek Dyeability for Cotton, Silk, and Wool from Different Tree Species and Origin
황백의 품종 및 산지에 따른 면, 견, 양모직물에 대한 염색성 비교

Longchun Li, Cheunsoon Ahn
2014 Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles  
This study examined hwangbek dyeability for cotton, silk, and wool from different tree species and origin as well as their berberine and palmatine content. A total of 12 different hwangbek were examined, six purchased directly from different locations of China and six purchased from the Seoul Medicine Market. Hwangbek purchased from China were 3 Kwanhwangbek (Phellodendron amurense Rupr.) from Jilin, Liaoning, Heilongjiang and 3 Chunhwangbek (Phellodendron chinense Schneid.) from Sichuan,
more » ... from Sichuan, Yunnan, and Guangxi. Hwangbek purchased from the Seoul Medicine Market included 3 hwangbek that originated from Korea and 3 hwangbek imported from China. We extracted 2.5g of each hwangbek into 500mL of water for 60 min at 80 o C. Dyeing was conducted using the IR dyeing machine for 30min at 55 o C using a 1:100 liquor ratio. Cotton was mordanted using tannic acid followed by potassium antimonyl tartrate trihydrate treatment before dyeing. Berberine and palmatine pigments in hwangbek were identified with the HPLC-DAD-MS instrument and the amount of pigment was quantified using an ion chromatogram. The results indicated that the K/S values of dyed fabrics were highly related to the amount of pigment in hwangbek used for dyeing.
doi:10.5850/jksct.2014.38.1.110 fatcat:ab4orcoghnckhfa6xotfhwgpvi