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BREAKING WAVE CRITERIA; A STUDY EMPLOYING A NUMERICAL WAVE THEORY
1968
Coastal Engineering Proceedings
Although it is well recognized that wave systems in nature are irregular, comprising a spectrum of fundamental periods, there is still a need for improving our understanding of near-breaking nonlinear wave systems which contain a single fundamental period. For example, most of the shallow water design situations and other cases including forces on small diameter structures in which drag forces predominate are more directly treated in terms of a "design wave" rather than a wave spectrum. This
doi:10.9753/icce.v11.8
fatcat:6avzr6vcifdx5e4ymvuldg6vx4