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Mathematical Methods for Nonlinear Wave Phenomena and their Applications. Bragg Scattering of Surface Gravity Waves due to Porous Bottom Undulations
波の非線形現象の数理とその応用 透水性を有する海底起状による波浪のBragg散乱
1996
Journal of Japan Society of Fluid Mechanics
波の非線形現象の数理とその応用 透水性を有する海底起状による波浪のBragg散乱
Preserved Fulltext
Time-dependent and independent wave equations are developed for waves propagating over a porous rippled layer, with rapid undulations about the mean water depth satisfying the mild slope assumption, on an impermeable slowly varying bottom also satisfying the mild slope assumption. The ripples are assumed to have wavelengths of the same order as those of surface gravity waves. The time-dependent equation developed here contains the existing theories of Berkhoff (1972) and Kirby (1986) . A
doi:10.11426/nagare1982.15.195
fatcat:wbub5oqs4bamrpftgurqton3vq