Wave, Tide and Topographical Controls on Headland Sand Bypassing

E. V. King, D. C. Conley, G. Masselink, N. Leonardi, R. J. McCarroll, T. Scott, N. G. Valiente
2021 Journal of Geophysical Research - Oceans  
1. Headland bypassing is potentially widespread on energetic embayed coasts. 2. Bypassing can be predicted for realistic morphology and sand coverage; key parameters are headland extent, surf zone width and toe depth. 3. Tides are a secondary control on bypassing rate under energetic waves. Wave-current interactions can dominate bypassing for median waves.
doi:10.1029/2020jc017053 fatcat:o2gq5bw7mjdlthmaeqhxn5cbju