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Empirical Estimation of Nearshore Waves From a Global Deep-Water Wave Model

M. Browne, D. Strauss, B. Castelle, M. Blumenstein, R. Tomlinson, C. Lane
2006 IEEE Geoscience and Remote Sensing Letters  
However, untransformed data at grid points in deep water provide a poor estimate of swell characteristics at nearshore locations, which are often of significant scientific, engineering, and public interest  ...  ., from in situ buoys or human observers, empirical alternatives such artificial neural networks (ANNs) and linear regression may be considered for inferring nearshore conditions from offshore model output  ...  ACKNOWLEDGMENT Data were obtained with the assistance of D. Robinson and J. Waldron (Australian Environmental Protection Agency's Coastal Services Unit and CoastalWatch Australia).  ... 
doi:10.1109/lgrs.2006.876225 fatcat:smemn7zy3fcwvkirj75kcq6nfu

The California coastal wave monitoring and prediction system

W.C. O'Reilly, Corey B. Olfe, Julianna Thomas, R.J. Seymour, R.T. Guza
2016 Coastal Engineering  
Offshore, deep water directional wave buoys are used to initialize a nonstationary, linear, spectral refraction wave model.  ...  A decade-long effort to estimate nearshore (20 m depth) wave conditions based on offshore buoy observations along the California coast is described.  ...  to estimate the transformation of wave spectra from deep water buoy stations to nearshore prediction points.  ... 
doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2016.06.005 fatcat:xacd7hqcvzawhgfyte2ba2vn5q

A method to characterize the different extreme waves for islands exposed to various wave regimes: a case study devoted to Reunion Island

S. Lecacheux, R. Pedreros, G. Le Cozannet, J. Thiébot, Y. De La Torre, T. Bulteau
2012 Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences  
For each scenario, the nearshore wave characteristics are modelled all around Reunion Island and the linear theory equations are used to back calculate the equivalent deep-water wave characteristics for  ...  The relative exposure of the coastline to the extreme waves of each regime is determined by comparing the equivalent deep-water wave characteristics.  ...  We wish to thank Valérie Monbet and Pierre Ailliot for kindly providing the METIS toolbox and for useful recommendations on sea-wave classifications.  ... 
doi:10.5194/nhess-12-2425-2012 fatcat:3lbkbeynbvf5nodoqorjd6xw7m

Benchmarking of numerical models for wave overtopping at dikes with shallow mildly sloping foreshores: Accuracy versus speed

Christopher H. Lashley, Barbara Zanuttigh, Jeremy D. Bricker, Jentsje van der Meer, Corrado Altomare, Tomohiro Suzuki, Volker Roeber, Patrick Oosterlo
2020 Environmental Modelling & Software  
To accurately predict the consequences of nearshore waves, coastal engineers often employ numerical models.  ...  A variety of these models, broadly classified as either phase-resolving or phase-averaged, exist; each with strengths and limitations owing to the physical schematization of processes within them.  ...  Acknowledgements This work is part of the Perspectief research programme All-Risk with  ... 
doi:10.1016/j.envsoft.2020.104740 fatcat:rlxmpyesgnf4xb4kdh7pdi4wvu


Nicolas Chini, Peter Stansby, Mike Walkden, Jim Hall, Judith Wolf, Jason Lowe, Robert Nicholls
2011 Coastal Engineering Proceedings  
With this framework, components of which have already been calibrated and validated, a set of consistent global climate change projections is used to estimate the future evolution of an un-engineered coastline  ...  wave propagation input into SCAPE for shoreline modelling.  ...  This methodology, based on setting up of a look-up table using the wave model TOMAWAC (Benoit et al., 1996) , permits fast estimation of wave transfer from deep to shallow waters including the effects  ... 
doi:10.9753/icce.v32.sediment.61 fatcat:24atlzxngja6tc4dyy2wz5z4by

Wave Energy Impact on Benin's Coastline Dynamics, Gulf of Guinea

Guy Hervé Hounguè, Basile Bruno Kounouhéwa, Bernard Noukpo Tokpohozin, Mathias Adjimon Houékpohéha, Vianou Irénée Madogni, Rafael Almar
2018 Current Journal of Applied Science and Technology  
Wave energy assessment has been carried using the empirical formula for medium water depths consideration (equation ( 10 )).  ...  ERAI data have been adjusted with in situ data coming from the buoy installed off Autonomous Port of Cotonou (Benin) over a period of 14 years.  ...  SWAN or WW3) to propagate waves from deep water to the break point would have been an ideal option for a short-term study, because of the difficulties presented by the spatio-temporal scales of this study  ... 
doi:10.9734/cjast/2018/44341 fatcat:bg5gcwpofjgqtev2wx56u32nq4

Distant-Source Swells Cause Coastal Inundation on Fiji's Coral Coast

Moritz Wandres, Jérôme Aucan, Antonio Espejo, Naomi Jackson, Antoine De Ramon N'Yeurt, Hervé Damlamian
2020 Frontiers in Marine Science  
the nearshore wave setup and TWL than the empirical equations.  ...  Here we examine extreme total water level (TWL) and inundation driven by a distant-source swell on Fiji's Coral Coast using observations and a phase-resolving wave model (XBeach).  ...  Last, a big vinaka vaka levu to Adrien Lauranceau-Moineau, Donato Roqica, Judith Giblin, Maleli Turagabeci, Poate Degei, Salesh Kumar, and Zulfikar Begg for their assistance with the field data collection  ... 
doi:10.3389/fmars.2020.00546 fatcat:s6cppswajvck5kfl4tzp5pkape

Global Dissipation Models for Simulating Tsunamis at Far-Field Coasts up to 60 hours Post-Earthquake: Multi-Site Tests in Australia

Gareth Davies, Fabrizio Romano, Stefano Lorito
2020 Frontiers in Earth Science  
On nearshore grids we solve the nonlinear shallow water equations with Manning-friction, while on the global grid we test three reducedphysics propagation models which combine the linear shallow water  ...  As the simulation duration is increased from 36 to 60 h, the frictionless model increasingly overestimates observed wave heights, whereas models with global-scale friction work relatively well.  ...  The elevation data was based on a range of elevation products available from ELVIS, The Australian Oceans Data Network, Ausseabed http://www.  ... 
doi:10.3389/feart.2020.598235 fatcat:qv7mltmdbvffzd7j6jvzmap6xy

Application of numerical models to evaluate oil spills propagation in the coastal environment of the Black Sea

Liliana Rusu
2010 Journal of Environmental Engineering and Landscape Management  
Starting from the fact that most accidents were generated by an inadequate forecast of the wave conditions, the aim of the present work is to develop a methodology based on spectral phase-averaging wave  ...  The wave induced currents that may be a key factor in driving the pollution are also assessed. This implies both the Stokes drift and the wave induced nearshore currents.  ...  Hence, such a model can estimate only the longshore component of the nearshore currents, while a 3D model can estimate also the cross shore component and the vertical variation of the currents.  ... 
doi:10.3846/jeelm.2010.33 fatcat:zxi7sz25evaqzcb4wdwk2rmjzi

Coastal Flood Modeling Challenges in Defended Urban Backshores

Timu Gallien, Nikos Kalligeris, Marie-Pierre Delisle, Bo-Xiang Tang, Joseph Lucey, Maria Winters
2018 Geosciences  
Tremendous advances in geospatial data quality, numerical modeling and overtopping estimation have significantly improved flood prediction; however, risk assessments do not typically consider the co-occurrence  ...  Coastal flooding is a significant and increasing hazard. There are multiple drivers including rising coastal water levels, more intense hydrologic inputs, shoaling groundwater and urbanization.  ...  Flood vulnerability assessments often use simple empirical runup models (e.g., [124] ) driven by deep water wave data.  ... 
doi:10.3390/geosciences8120450 fatcat:fjb5lgk4wzcajexunxf5eue2em

3D Ocean Water Wave Surface Analysis on Airborne LiDAR Bathymetric Point Clouds

Sajjad Roshandel, Weiquan Liu, Cheng Wang, Jonathan Li
2021 Remote Sensing  
We adapted for most types of wave shape anatomies in shallow waters, nearshore, and onshore of the coastal zone. We used a wavelet analysis filter to detect the water wave surface.  ...  In this paper, we propose a novel approach for accurate detection and analysis of water wave surface from Airborne LiDAR Bathymetry (ALB) large-scale point clouds data.  ...  Conflicts of Interest: The authors declare no conflict of interest.  ... 
doi:10.3390/rs13193918 fatcat:ggqwjheeprgn3lblo3s64g64yy

Projected 21st Century Coastal Flooding in the Southern California Bight. Part 1: Development of the Third Generation CoSMoS Model

Andrea O'Neill, Li Erikson, Patrick Barnard, Patrick Limber, Sean Vitousek, Jonathan Warrick, Amy Foxgrover, Jessica Lovering
2018 Journal of Marine Science and Engineering  
global tide model, and atmospheric forcing data from GCMs, to determine regional wave and water-level boundary conditions.  ...  The deep-water wave climate is transformed to a more complicated nearshore wave field by the numerous seamounts, knolls, canyons, and the Channel Islands [20] [21] [22] [23] .  ...  Wave direction is critical to accurate simulations of wave propagation from deep-water to the nearshore in the complex SCB region [22] .  ... 
doi:10.3390/jmse6020059 fatcat:yfsg3bclz5c33edxr5q4nyvi6u


Zhong Peng, Jill Bradon
2018 Coastal Engineering Proceedings  
Modelled wave spectra are calibrated using the shape-focus method and then applied to a SWAN wave model to simulate nearshore wave transformation.  ...  to calibrating wave spectra for nearshore wave modelling.  ...  When a wave propagates from the deep ocean to the coast, the main physical processes change.  ... 
doi:10.9753/icce.v36.papers.50 fatcat:hl5j2bqkrzasxcndplnp6r3lva

Validated coastal flood modeling at Imperial Beach, California: Comparing total water level, empirical and numerical overtopping methodologies

T.W. Gallien
2016 Coastal Engineering  
SWAN, a numerical wave model, transformed deep water buoy spectra to the nearshore. Static TWLs were calculated using SWAN output and an empirical runup model.  ...  Static models rely on empirically calculated wave setup or runup and simply compare total water level (TWL) to land elevation.  ...  Sean Crosby provided MEM CDIP wave spectra. The author would like to thank the three reviewers for their constructive comments that strengthened this manuscript.  ... 
doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2016.01.014 fatcat:v4qldpp7fje5nfsy2q7ks2am5a


Claudio Iuppa, Luca Cavallaro, Rosaria Ester Musumeci, Enrico Foti
2020 Coastal Engineering Proceedings  
In the present study a forecasting model for coastal flooding based on ANNs, in which the input data are the offshore wave characteristics from large scale model and the output results are the flooded  ...  However, the models adopted to obtain the data in the nearshore area require high computational costs, which are often too demanding and not viable for large scale forecasting.  ...  ACKNOWLEDGMENTS This work has been partly supported by the project "NEWS -Nearshore hazard monitoring and Early Warning System" (code C1-3.2-60) in the framework of the EU programme INTERREG V-A Italia  ... 
doi:10.9753/icce.v36v.papers.9 fatcat:nw7wr5fjkvepzk3t7pxr7hh364
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